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WHEELS
Toe: TOE-IN is when the front of the tires are closer than the rear. Look at your feet...Toe-in reduces wandering at high speed with a slight loss of steering when entering a turn. Toe-in slows down the car, increasing tire wear, but can be used to control the car balance. Toe-in at the rear will slow it down and keep it from trying to pass the front. In the front it increasing understeer and at the rear it decreases oversteer.
TOE-OUT is when the rear of the tires are closer than the front. Walk like a penguin ! Toe-out might look ridiculous at first but has a good reason to look that way. When turning, the inner wheels of your car are rolling along a smaller diameter circle than the outer wheels. This means, the inner wheels turn at a greater angle than the outer ones. Using toe-out so that each wheel is traveling along their respective path/circle will feel like riding on rails. Unfortunately, in a straight line, toe-out makes the car wander around and very hard to track straight.
Camber: How much the tires top lean towards the car. Negative camber is TOWARDS the car, and positive is AWAY. 0° means your tire
is perpendicular to the road. In a straight line, you want 0°. When turning though, you want the tire to have a bit of negative (sometimes a lot!) to compensate for the tire's deflection. Camber controls the amount and shape of your tire's contact patches. You want the most traction at all times. You can't, so find a compromise in between :). Strat from 1°-2° in front
and 0.5°-1.5° in rear.
Track: This is how wide apart, measured from the tire's center line, the front or rear wheels are. Wider is generally better. Narrower track will reduce steering and probably understeer. Think of dragsters. Wider makes the car very agile but sometimes nervous at high speed.
TRANSMISSION
Final drive ratio: Higher numerical value is shorter, lower is wider. The age old compromise between acceleration and top
speed. Shorter gearing helps acceleration at the cost of top speed. Set it so you hit top speed (before braking) before redline, then fine tune so the gearing matches the turns.
LIMITED SLIP
Differential(LSD): Back to the idea that, when turning, the inner and outer wheels turn along diferent paths, they also turn at different speeds. The differential allows two wheels to turn at different speeds. 0 means it is 'open'or'loose'. 10 would mean it is 'locked'or'tight'. I'll use tight for now because it is not clear if 10 is the maximum in LFS. Tigher LSD for traction in straight line with loss of steering. I find 9-10 is ideal in most cases as the last thing a spinning wheel needs is MORE power.
4 Wheel Drive: Front and rear should both be set high along with center diff. All at 9-10 is fine. Front-torque Split is the setting you want to play with. (0.00) means it has no power going to the front wheels and is basically RWD. (1.00) is FWD. I suggest (0.60) for a FWD feel and (0.40) for a RWD feel.
TIRES
Type: Well, road tires for the road, knobby tires for rally. You can also change to harder front tires to reduce
oversteer, or harder rear to have more.
Pressure: Lower to increase grip at the expense of response and stability. Higher allows the car to react quicker and recover predictably.
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